Nagaseeds & Nagaplants Growing Guides

So you've bought your seeds or plants and now you're ready to grow these unique chilli peppers. There's no real secret to success in this but if you're new to growing you might find these guides useful. Following the simple steps in these guides will increase your chances of successfully growing what is perhaps the hottest chillies in the world, the famous Naga Morich.

These guides are included in pdf format so you can print them should you want these literary gems for your scrapbook :-)      [nagaseeds.pdf] and [nagaplants.pdf]


Nagaseeds Growing Guide

Nagaseeds

Supplier of Genuine Naga Morich Seeds

  

Thanks for your recent purchase. We want you to have the best chance of success in growing this unique and rare pepper. If you are unfamiliar with germinating and growing chilli peppers from seed this simple guide may be of help.

 Typical germination can take anything from 10 days to 4 weeks so don’t be too impatient. Some seeds always fail to germinate but by following this guide you will maximise the chance of success.

Start by soaking the seeds overnight, this helps soften the seed coat. While the seeds are soaking you can prepare the compost.

 Use a light compost mix, a purpose made seed compost or an ordinary compost mixed with 30-40% perlite is suitable. We have had good results using rock-wool cubes. These can be transferred to a pot with compost once the seedlings emerge without disturbing the roots.

If using compost, water it well and let it drain well. Place the seeds on the surface and cover with a fine layer of compost, a 2-3 mm covering is enough. Vermiculite can be used as a covering as this is very light and has good moisture retaining properties.

If using rock-wool drop a single seed into the pre-formed hole, water the cubes well and let them drain.

Place the container into a propagator for germination.

A heated propagator is best but a covered container in a warm place can also produce good results.  If the propagator has vents, close them at first. Keep the surface of the compost moist but not too wet otherwise the seeds will rot. The seeds rarely need watering again while in the propagator but some seeds will take much longer to germinate than others so you should check to make sure they don’t dry out.

Once the seedlings appear increase ventilation by opening the vents of the propagator and move to a well lit place. Take care at night, if the temperature drops move the new seedlings to a warmer location.

2-3 weeks after germination the seedling should have 2 pairs of leaves. Feeding with a weak mix of plant food can begin. Use a 25% strength solution at first, building up to full strength over the next 4 weeks. The seedlings can be potted-on at this stage. If compost was used for germination take care not to disturb the roots too much and only hold the seedling by its first leaves. Also take care not to disturb un-germinated seeds, they may just be waking up. After potting-on, the plants can be placed back into the propagator for a day or two, this will help prevent wilting that sometimes happens.

The plants can now be moved into their final locations. If placed outside, the plants should be brought back in if the temperature drops, especially at night, for a week or so until they become acclimatised to cooler outside temperatures.

All chilli plants do best in a warm, sunny location. A greenhouse or conservatory is ideal for this. If placed outside the plants should be tied to a cane to help support them against wind and help carry the load once pods start to appear.

Feeding should be with a general purpose plant food for the first month or so. Once flowers and pods start to appear feeding should continue with tomato food. Used as directed on the pack or bottle. Don’t over-feed, this can be as bad as under-feeding in some circumstances.

Chillies are self-pollinating but you can help simply by touching the flowers with the tip of your finger to move the pollen about from flower to flower. This will increase the chances of the flower turning into a pod.  Don’t worry if some flowers drop, this is normal.

Pods can be picked green or left to ripen to orange or red. Picking when green will encourage more flowers to be produced, in turn leading to more peppers from a single plant.

We hope you have a lot of fun growing these seeds, and even more eating the results.

Let us know how you get on and if you have any questions feel free to e-mail us. 


 

Nagaplants Growing Guide

Nagaseeds

Supplier of Genuine Naga Morich Seeds

 

Thanks for your recent purchase. We want you to have the best chance of success in growing this unique and rare pepper. If you are unfamiliar with and growing chilli peppers this simple guide may be of help.

Unpacking and Potting Up

 Once you receive your package you should remove both plastic ends from the tube and carefully remove the contents. There are tape tabs at each end, pull gently on one of these.

Carefully remove the bubble-wrap and plastic bags using scissors to cut the tape.

DO NOT TRY TO TEAR THE PACKAGING. THIS WILL DAMAGE THE PLANTS INSIDE.

Once the plants are free of the packaging the bare roots can be immersed in water while you prepare the pots and compost. 3-4 inch pots should be used at this stage.

You do not need to remove all the vermiculite or rock-wool from the roots when potting up. Transfer the plant to its new pot and gently firm compost around the roots, do not press too firmly or you will snap the finer roots.

Once potted you should water well and let the pots drain.  Keep the plants out of the sun and away from too much heat for a day or two until they have recovered from their trip.  If an unheated propagator is available the plants can be put inside to help keep humidity high to speed recovery.

If the plant has wilted it can be supported by inserting a toothpick or cotton bud into the compost next to it until it has recovered.

Keep the compost moist but don’t be tempted to over-water for a week or so before hardening off to go outside or into the greenhouse.

Growi ng On.

The plants can now be moved into their final locations. If placed outside, the plants should be brought back in if the temperature drops, especially at night, for a week or so until they become acclimatised to cooler outside temperatures.

All chilli plants do best in a warm, sunny location. A greenhouse or conservatory is ideal for this. If placed outside the plants should be tied to a cane to help support them against wind and help carry the load once pods start to appear.

Feeding should be with a general purpose plant food for the first month or so. Once flowers and pods start to appear feeding should continue with tomato food. Used as directed on the pack or bottle. Don’t over-feed, this can be as bad as under-feeding in some circumstances.

Chillies are self-pollinating but you can help simply by touching the flowers with the tip of your finger to move the pollen about from flower to flower. This will increase the chances of the flower turning into a pod.  Don’t worry if some flowers drop, this is normal.

Pods can be picked green or left to ripen to orange or red. Picking when green will encourage more flowers to be produced, in turn leading to more peppers from a single plant.

We hope you have a lot of fun growing these unique chilli plants, and even more eating the results.

Let us know how you get on and if you have any questions feel free to e-mail us.